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Buster
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Posted: August 25 2008 at 8:23am | IP Logged Quote Buster

I saw a 54 cal Lyman flint lock at a local gun shop here in PA where flintlock is the required ingnition for primitive weapons season. I have a 50 cal TC Hawken so really do not need another, but it has my interest. What would the going rate be to buy a Lyman off theused shelf with a reasonably clean barrel? And secondly for those with experience with both what are the merits and demerits of a 54 cal? I primarily hunt white tail and taken very few shots beyond 125 yards.
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Ranch 13
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Posted: August 25 2008 at 1:52pm | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13

I have/had a considerable amount of experience with a Lyman Great Plains rifle in 54 flint. The worst part of that deal was the durned thing shot just as well as the custom made 54 flint I paid several times as much for
While the 50 preforms admirrably on game, the 54 will smackem harder and at longer ranges, especially in windy conditions than the 50 will.
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davemuzz
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Posted: August 25 2008 at 5:12pm | IP Logged Quote davemuzz

Buster,

Ranch has considerable experience with shooting. Every suggestion he has ever given me I've tried and it's worked.

Dave

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Buster
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Posted: August 26 2008 at 5:25am | IP Logged Quote Buster

Thanks guys,

I had just about talked myself into it anyway, smacking them harder has a good ring to it. I assume the standard twist rate stuff applies to a 54 cal, such as 1:66 is for round ball, and a 1:28 to 1:32 is for larger conicals, and a 1:48 is the alledgeded happy medium that will shoot round balls and short conicals?

Is 200$ for a used rig a reasonable deal?
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Buster
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Posted: August 28 2008 at 7:27am | IP Logged Quote Buster

I talked myself into it and now I took her home. 200$ and he threw in 2# of 2F. It is a 54 cal Deerstalker with a 1:48 twist. Any suggested loads capable of deer hunting? I think any projectile would work, as long as it is accurate, power belts, minies, maxiis, round balls etc. I like to stick with Goex, I do not find it to be that mush more a chore than any synthetics, plus it is hard to ignite synthetics with a flintlock anyway. If I had to guess I would start with 90 grains of 2F and a 295 grain power belt, but if someone has a better starting spot I would try it first.

I found that a 458 mag case holds about 90 grains of 2F.
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Ranch 13
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Posted: August 28 2008 at 12:32pm | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13

I always shot 110 grs 2f (goex) for hunting(or longrange target and plinking especially in windy conditions), and 55 grs for target work. The projectile was a .535 roundball in a .018 thick pillow tic patch, either lubed with blue and gray lube, or just a plain ol spit patch.
The charge in the flash pan was about 1 gr of 4f , tipped to the outside of the pan.
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Buster
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Posted: August 28 2008 at 1:31pm | IP Logged Quote Buster

Ranch,
Are you a bevel side up or bevel side down fan for the flint? Sometimes I have a hell of a time to get a good spark with my TC hawken, even with a new frizzen.
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Ranch 13
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Posted: August 28 2008 at 8:39pm | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13

Depends on the flint. If its a sawed flint they never worked particularly well for me , didn't matter what way.
Hand knapped English, or a crudder version built by myself,,, the bevel up worked quite well. I used a ball starter the handle was made from a chunk of deer antler. One end had a hole drilled in it that, made a good 55 gr powder measure. The other end left flat and was used to knap the flint and keep it sharp.
Also wet your thumb with your tongue, and wipe the frizzn with that thumb before you shoot to help displace any soot or grease that may have accumulated on the frizzen.
Also make sure the flint isn't striking the frizzen to high, and causing the sparks to be all mostly gone before the frizzen flops back and lets the sparks into the pan.
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davemuzz
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Posted: August 29 2008 at 4:33am | IP Logged Quote davemuzz

.535 ROUNDBALL!!!....OMG!!!! I'm so use to shootin a 180 grain 50 cal .495 roundballs that these are 40 thousands thicker than what I shoot.

That's a way bigger SMACK!

Dave

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Ranch 13
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Posted: August 29 2008 at 6:43am | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13

HEHEHEHE, yes it is. That's one of the reason's I always get the chuckles when some self appointed guru proclaims the round ball as a poor choice. He has obviuously never shot a living critter with either a 50 or a 54, elstwize we wouldn't really be subjected to the misinformation
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Buster
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Posted: August 29 2008 at 6:57am | IP Logged Quote Buster

OK Ranck thanks, you seem to know your stuff

I did have one last question, as it seems I have never been incredibly proficcient (lots of at bats with few backstraps in the freezer and it aint for the lack of deer)with a muzzleloader I am relooking at everything. I used to swab the gun liberally with wd40 after water/soap cleaning, polishing with this low VOC 'solvent'. I have heard petroleum products should be kept away at all costs due to reactions with black powder so I switched to swabbing with bore butter. Can't tell if it helped so is the petroleum thing fact or fiction?

The new question from your last message is how do you knapp a flint? I have have always used black english flints, poor results with the machined TC flints. I have heard about knapping but never seen it done. Maybe there is a site on the web with a few fictures. I also carry the alcohol medical wipes in the little pouch that I use to clean after a shot in the field (dries fast and removes soot which seems to impede spark). Sorry for all the questions but following the advice of local self proclaimed experts is not helping me yet.
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Ranch 13
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Posted: August 29 2008 at 11:04am | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13

Well the petroluem thing isn't all fiction , but it ain't all fact either.
AFter cleaning , I always gave a shot of wd 40 down the bore, but the first thing I'ld do when getting ready to shoot is dump about 10 grs down the hole, fill the flashpan, and while holding the rifle mostly straight up torch the thing off, all will be clear for quite some time.
Putting a jayfeather or pipe cleaner in the touch hole while loading will often times help ignition.
Knapping flints is just the simple process of taking something such as a piece of deer horn sawn flat, and gently tapping on an angle to make a sharp edge on the flint. Takes practice is all, but its possible to salvage flint for quite some time, after you get it figured out.
Hope all this diatribe helps ya to fill the tag, and get more enjoyment out of the ol flinchlockgun.
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50DEP
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Posted: September 05 2008 at 6:23pm | IP Logged Quote 50DEP

I have a Lyman Great Plains flintlock rifle in 54 cal as well and have to agree with Ranch 100%. The 54 cal is SOOOooooo much more rifle on target than the 50cal its crazy.
I use pillow ticking approximately .015" thick for patches and also a .535" ball cast myself with Lee mold. Loads alittle stiff because of the thick patch and oversize ball. The patch shows no sign of burn out and the darn rifle shoots great with 95gr Goex FF!
Oops! I forgot to mention I also use a Bore butter soaked felt bore button under the ball and patch. groups improved with this combination.
I would think you should be able to offer $295.00 -$325.00 for it and walk away getting the better of the deal.
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