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BPCR - Black Powder Rifle Cartridges
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STCM(SW)
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Posted: December 18 2009 at 10:35pm | IP Logged Quote STCM(SW)

For my 45-70 with the GC 405 gr & 38-55 GC 255 gr anyone?

RS - FFG Equivalent

Yea, I have the real BP FF, but rather use this that I got today.

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2soon2old
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Posted: January 03 2010 at 10:15am | IP Logged Quote 2soon2old

In the recent past, Hodgdon published granular Pyrodex loads for cartridges online. I have been unable to find any current online data for Pyrodex other than pellets. However, Hodgdon claims that granular Pyrodex replaces RBP one-for-one volumetrically.

Here is the URL for the 2008 manual. It contains data for Pyrodex pellets and granular T7 that might be helpful.

http://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/muzzleloading_manual_2008.pdf?CHE CKBOX_1=on

The data that I have for 38WCF(revolver) indicate that T7 2Fg is a little less energetic than Pyrodex RS, vol./vol.

                  gr(bpv) fps(m) psi
777:     FFg     ; 30     887     ;  7700
Pyrodex     RS   &nb sp; 30     903  &nbs p;  7900

Sorry, it didn't occur to me to copy the entire dataset for cartridges.

The section on cleaning cartridges is a quoted below. I don't do RBP, so you might already know this.

"Cartridge cases that have been fired using Pyrodex require special care. As soon as possible after firing, cases should be de-primed and immersed in 50% water and
white vinegar. The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the corrosive residues remaining in the case. Care should be taken to limit the soaking time of the cases in the vinegar to 10 minutes. Soaking for a longer time may cause etching of the brass case resulting in shortened case life. Rinse cases with clear water, dry and polish in a tumbler with corncob or walnut shell media."

Edited by 2soon2old on January 03 2010 at 10:34am
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drcook
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Posted: January 03 2010 at 11:52am | IP Logged Quote drcook

There are also other articles floating around about the "corrosive residues" that remain in barrels and how soon barrels can actually rust from it.

Usage of the synthetic powders requires the same kind of diigence about cleaning your firearm as real black powder does.

So my comment here has no reflection on how good or bad it works, simply that I have seen reports on that you need to be as cleanly with the substitutes as you do with the real.

dc


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STCM(SW)
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Posted: January 03 2010 at 12:32pm | IP Logged Quote STCM(SW)

So, I might as well us my old 2F BP then?

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Ranch 13
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Posted: January 03 2010 at 12:55pm | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13

Nick it pretty much boils down to if your not shooting black just as well shoot smokeless.
But in the meantime fill your case with the pyrodex to the poin the bullet will compress it about 1/8 inch when fully seated. May need a bit more compression than that but its a good place to start. But then with due dilegence be sure and thoroughly clean the gun and the empty cases.

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25-06RT
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Posted: January 08 2010 at 6:49am | IP Logged Quote 25-06RT

Pyrodex Select shoots very well in my 45-70 Sharps. How I found this out is because of a fellow at my range that said that it was a waste of time to try it because it would not shoot. I cleaned his plow in the last BP match we had using Pyrodex Select. I load it just like BP. I found the volume I needed to fill the case to the point that I could get the amount of compression I wanted and seat a Walters 30 thousand wad and seat my RBCS 500 gr target bullet where I wanted it. It shoots 10 shots under 2 inch at 200 meters off the bench. I run a wet patch of Awesome Orange or Fantastic with Orange Oil down the bore and a dry one after every shot. I clean up the rifle with the same stuff. It melts BP fouling and clean up is quick.
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Yellowhouse
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Posted: January 08 2010 at 8:12pm | IP Logged Quote Yellowhouse

Seen more muzzleloader bores ruint by Pyrodex than by BP!!!

Hey Don,

I found out the hard way about cleaning the soft steels of originals using the Windex w/vinegar even when diluted. Don't do it! I know and you know of a gunwriter that is high on this and maybe I did it wrong but Rust City set in....scared hell out of me on that original Roller. Didn't take me long to go back to the ole Ballistol 10:1 mix for wiping and straight stuff for storage.
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Posted: January 08 2010 at 8:27pm | IP Logged Quote Ranch 13



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Kurt
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Posted: January 08 2010 at 9:18pm | IP Logged Quote Kurt

Welcome Yellowhouse.

No acid is good for iron.
Seems like a lot of people put a lot of black magic that is not needed when they shoot black powder..

As far as shooting the sub powders like Pyrodex don't use a filler other than wads your asking for problems, even with black powder.

As far as Pyrodex is concerned. When you clean that rifle after using that stuff make sure you get it clean! If you still get a gray patch you still have lead in the bore and that lead has powder fouling under it and that will draw moisture and it will start rust.

I was out shooting at the range one day and a guy pulled out a new Pedersoli Quigley rifle and showed it to me so I asked what he used for a load and he said Pyrodex with just a little compression and he said it does not like a compressed load. So I asked how he cleaned his rifle and he said that he used #9 Hoppys and some shooters choice and just a couple patches and it is clean.
I looked down the bore and all I saw was a dark shadow. I handed him the rifle ans said take a look his mouth opened and said where did that dust get in there I went and got my wiping rod and had him push a patch through and it came out brown.
I told him when you clean that rifle when you use pyrodex use just water or add just a little oil soap or some water soluble oil mixed with it if you feel you need more than water. when it is clean and dry oil it, and couple hours later clean it again.

But when he started to shoot his loads shot good for a while but went to pieces before he shot 25 rounds, so I handed him the cleaning rod and damp patches I was using for wiping between shots a mix of 50/50 antifreeze and he mined out lead.
50/50 has a rust preservative in it

Kurt

Edited by Kurt on January 08 2010 at 9:20pm


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