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357_Sig
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 4:19am | IP Logged Quote 357_Sig

I picked up a Glock 29 yesterday. For those that dont know, its a subcompact 10mm. I have never shot a 10mm before. I was amazed by the recoil. Which is to say, I thought it was less than a Glock 22 and I compare it to the Glock 357 Sig.

Any suggestions or tips and tricks to reloading for the 10mm and Glock. I know some people wont fire reloads in Glock and some have fired thousands of reloads. I know thw "Ka-boom" can be a result of hot loads. I dont plan on making hot loads.

Thanks for your input guys. IM still pretty new here and find this very informative.
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blackhawkacp
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 5:04am | IP Logged Quote blackhawkacp

Hope you enjoy shooting your glock 10mm. They are neat guns. Save your brass

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Posted: June 13 2012 at 5:45am | IP Logged Quote joed

I loaded 9mm for just over a year for 3 GLOCK 26's.   All guns had Wolf after market barrels. Last month one of them had a kaboom.    

I was very careful and they weren't hot loads.   I suspect the gun somehow fired out of battery.   But I will not use anything but new ammo in a GLOCK again.
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The_Shadow
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 6:57am | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

357_Sig, congrats with the Glock-29. The best tip I could offer for you is to use the "Pass Thru Die" system for reconditioning your 10mm brass. Most 10mm range brass is fired from the Glocks and the factory barrels are somewhat loose chambered, so expansion of the case can show when reloading. Any casing which is "SMILED" is toast...(they can be used to setup dies or as dummy rounds but never to be reloaded period!)

Let me point you to this thread for an explanation...
http://forums.handloads.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=30708&PN=4

Some companies have pushed the 10mm ammo performance to the upper limit those being Underwood, SwampFox(Mike Willard has passed away RIP), Double Tap and Buffalo Bore.

I have been loading for the 10mm since March 1990, and enjoy the cartridge for all it has to offer.
I also have the G-29 and it has served me well, I run mine with the Wolff Gun Springs two piece non captive recoil rod and 21 lb spring set.

I have reconditiond may 10mm brass which were fired from the HK MP5-10 (FBI range pickups) using the "Pass Thru" die setup. HK MP5 has a fluted chamber and leaves impressions of the flutes on the brass.

Be sure to stop in at the GlockTalk 10mm Reloading section of the forum, much to be learned...
http://glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=10 &f=67

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JoeJack
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 8:19am | IP Logged Quote JoeJack

joed wrote:
I loaded 9mm for just over a year for 3 GLOCK 26's.   All guns had Wolf after market barrels. Last month one of them had a kaboom.    

I was very careful and they weren't hot loads.   I suspect the gun somehow fired out of battery.   But I will not use anything but new ammo in a GLOCK again.


I would think you could have a KB with or without factory ammo. Why would one differ from the the other unless you were reloading with a lead bullet?
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blackhawkacp
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 9:04am | IP Logged Quote blackhawkacp

Do you think that the standard Lee 40/10 die would work in push through configuration? I guess Redding makes some pass through dies.

Going a bit OT: I have run my completed 380 rounds through an empty Lee 38 special die that ensures feeding when loading .358" bullets in them. I suppose I end up with a smaller bullet but I don't have a .356 sizer.

The_Shadow wrote:
357_Sig, congrats with the Glock-29. The best tip I could offer for you is to use the "Pass Thru Die" system for reconditioning your 10mm brass. Most 10mm range brass is fired from the Glocks and the factory barrels are somewhat loose chambered, so expansion of the case can show when reloading. Any casing which is "SMILED" is toast...(they can be used to setup dies or as dummy rounds but never to be reloaded period!)

Let me point you to this thread for an explanation...
http://forums.handloads.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=30708&PN=4

Some companies have pushed the 10mm ammo performance to the upper limit those being Underwood, SwampFox(Mike Willard has passed away RIP), Double Tap and Buffalo Bore.

I have been loading for the 10mm since March 1990, and enjoy the cartridge for all it has to offer.
I also have the G-29 and it has served me well, I run mine with the Wolff Gun Springs two piece non captive recoil rod and 21 lb spring set.

I have reconditiond may 10mm brass which were fired from the HK MP5-10 (FBI range pickups) using the "Pass Thru" die setup. HK MP5 has a fluted chamber and leaves impressions of the flutes on the brass.

Be sure to stop in at the GlockTalk 10mm Reloading section of the forum, much to be learned...
http://glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=10 &f=67


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Posted: June 13 2012 at 9:53am | IP Logged Quote joed

JoeJack wrote:
joed wrote:
I loaded 9mm for just over a year for 3 GLOCK 26's.   All guns had Wolf after market barrels. Last month one of them had a kaboom.    

I was very careful and they weren't hot loads.   I suspect the gun somehow fired out of battery.   But I will not use anything but new ammo in a GLOCK again.


I would think you could have a KB with or without factory ammo. Why would one differ from the the other unless you were reloading with a lead bullet?


Actually you are quite right.   The person that had the mishap took it to his gunsmith to have it checked over.   He was told it is quite frequent with factory ammo, especially Winchester.

I've never had it happen though.
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The_Shadow
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 11:57am | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

The normal 40/10 die has a closed top other than the threaded section to hold the depriming pin.
I use the LEE FCD (Factory Crimp Die) with it's guts removed as a Pass Thru Die (only the Carbide Ring is used to contact the brass casing) with a bullet sizer push pin tha replaces the shell holder, set the die so it is at the top of the full stroke, place the casing head on top of the push pin and shove it into and thru the FCD carbide ring. The next case will shove them out the open top of the die. The brass is sized/reconditioned from top to bottom including the extractor rim. When done these casings will drop into the cartridge case gauge freely. They are ready for priming and neck expansion for the bullets being used.
blackhawkacp wrote:
Do you think that the standard Lee 40/10 die would work in push through configuration? I guess Redding makes some pass through dies.

Going a bit OT: I have run my completed 380 rounds through an empty Lee 38 special die that ensures feeding when loading .358" bullets in them. I suppose I end up with a smaller bullet but I don't have a .356 sizer.

The_Shadow wrote:
357_Sig, congrats with the Glock-29. The best tip I could offer for you is to use the "Pass Thru Die" system for reconditioning your 10mm brass. Most 10mm range brass is fired from the Glocks and the factory barrels are somewhat loose chambered, so expansion of the case can show when reloading. Any casing which is "SMILED" is toast...(they can be used to setup dies or as dummy rounds but never to be reloaded period!)

Let me point you to this thread for an explanation...
http://forums.handloads.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=30708&PN=4

Some companies have pushed the 10mm ammo performance to the upper limit those being Underwood, SwampFox(Mike Willard has passed away RIP), Double Tap and Buffalo Bore.

I have been loading for the 10mm since March 1990, and enjoy the cartridge for all it has to offer.
I also have the G-29 and it has served me well, I run mine with the Wolff Gun Springs two piece non captive recoil rod and 21 lb spring set.

I have reconditiond may 10mm brass which were fired from the HK MP5-10 (FBI range pickups) using the "Pass Thru" die setup. HK MP5 has a fluted chamber and leaves impressions of the flutes on the brass.

Be sure to stop in at the GlockTalk 10mm Reloading section of the forum, much to be learned...
http://glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=10 &f=67


Edited by The_Shadow on June 13 2012 at 12:01pm


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blackhawkacp
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 3:15pm | IP Logged Quote blackhawkacp

Shadow
So you use the carbide FCD (with guts removed) as a sizer instead of the regular sizer die?

You deprime in a separate depriming step?

Just asking for clarification.

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The_Shadow
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Posted: June 13 2012 at 5:52pm | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

Yes, sometimes I hand deprime or use the RCBS sizer to deprime after the "Pass Thru" is done. This is an extra step but the benifits are worth it because I have seen some scary stuff from the range brass gotten from people, I'm to the point I may not be buying any used stuff any more because the pricing and expansion I have seen. New *StarLine* is looking better all the time.

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357_Sig
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Posted: June 14 2012 at 6:23am | IP Logged Quote 357_Sig

Thanks for the input guys. Shadow, thanks for the links. I am going to order the Lee Bulge buster. For my setup I have a Lee Turret press and I am loading for 40 S&W. Would I be better off just buying a 10mm die set or is using the 40 dies sufficent. That new Starline brass is what I am ordering. $17.99/100 plus shipping from brownells. IM using this brass for the 44 mag also. But I think for the 10mm, I will order 500 brass initialy and as long as those prices stay there, I will buy new brass if needed.   

Edited by 357_Sig on June 14 2012 at 6:24am
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blackhawkacp
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Posted: June 14 2012 at 7:02am | IP Logged Quote blackhawkacp

Hi sig
Is the bulge buster basically the same part as what sig. talked about?

I bought a set of Lee 10mm dies last month. The decapping resizing die is marked 40/10 so it is the same part as the 40. I have a set of 40 dies but have them locked into the die holder and didn't want to loosen them. My other 10 dies are marked 10 without the 40 marking. I bet it would work but they are different part numbers.

Going to get something to work the brass less than the std tools. My Press has 4 holes so I have enough room.

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357_Sig
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Posted: June 14 2012 at 7:22am | IP Logged Quote 357_Sig

blackhawkacp: I believe you meant what Shadow was talking about. And I think it is the same thing.

http://leeprecision.com/bulge-buster-kit.html

Heres a copy/paste from the Lee Website and Shadow maybe you could give some insight on what your expierences have been with this process.

Quote from Lee:
Glock Cases: We do not recommend "fixing" cases fired in pistols with unsupported chambers, because there is no way to make them safe once they have bulged. The case wall is thinned where it bulges, and resizing the outside of the case back down to the correct diameter does not restore the case back to its original thickness. If this case is fired in a pistol with an unsupported chamber again, and this thinned section of brass happens to line up with the unsupported part of the chamber, there is a high probability that the case will rupture.

Now I saw your post about the bulging and "smileys". Are they talking if it gets to that point do you think.

My idea with this is to find one good target load and hopefully have minimal bulging. After that all rounds will be loaded the same. If I were to ever decide to try and take a deer with a subcompact, or use for home/personal defense, the ammo would be factory anyway.



Edited by 357_Sig on June 14 2012 at 7:23am
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Posted: June 14 2012 at 7:38am | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

I recondition those that have a smooth rounded expansion of the brass and have used them even to full potential loadings (even in my little G-29 factory barrel with 200gr bullets at or over 1200 fps) , those that have a distinct "line" or "Smile" I would not use period!

As shown in the link where the cut in half case was shown, the "Smiled" brass was "pass thru sized", it did not re size that situation where the brass was stretched/shearing and therefore not fit for any reloading!

BTW, Short of buying new brass, I have started "pass thru sizing" all of my semiauto brass (10mm, 40S&W, 357Sig, 9x25Dillon, 45ACP and 9mm) as it provides for better feeding even in tighter chambered guns. It also gives me another step to inspect them (10mm and 9x25 in particular).

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Posted: June 14 2012 at 7:45am | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

Not trying to take anyone from this forum...
BTW there is a new 10mm forum that just started up...
http://10mm-firearms.com

It appears to be many of the guys who are members on the other forums that are 10mm people.

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Posted: June 18 2012 at 2:47pm | IP Logged Quote 357_Sig

The_Shadow wrote:
......... I'm to the point I may not be buying any used stuff any more because the pricing and expansion I have seen. New *StarLine* is looking better all the time.


I have already decided not to buy "once fired" brass for the 10mm. Mostly because of what Shadow said. 300 new Starline brass arrived at my house today. $17.99/100 from midway USA. Cant beat that price. I also got the Lee Bulge Buster kit for use with the FCD. Ive got 100 180gr Hornady XTP waiting and 200 more coming from midway. Anybody ever use the Nosler Sporting Handgun bullets. Im still trying to decide wat powder to use. After all the reading I have done the last few days, it seem like alot of people use Longshot. I have already decided I am not going to use Blue Dot. Mostly due to the possible increase pressure spikes in cold weather. Here in MN a permit to carry holder can carry while bowhunting statewide. This is new for us within the last couple of years. Plus I dont shoot indoors but I will shoot year round. Usually Ill go out til the temps are about 0 degrees with little or no wind. I dont want to have a to worry about grabbing the wrong ammo. I am using Blue Dot in a 44 mag and just trying to burn it up. I wouldnt have bought it if I would have seen the warning about cold weather and this powder. My idea with the 10mm, is to find a good accurate load with no or minimal bulging out of the stock G29 and only use that load for all of the 10mm. I plan to have a couple of different bullet styles. Thanks for the replies guys. Ive wanted a 10 for a long time and I am looking forward to working with it.   
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Posted: June 18 2012 at 2:56pm | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

If you don't mind hand weighing powder charges IMR 800X is also a good choice for the 10mm.

I still like my Blue Dot loads, but we don't usually have that cold of weather. I think the Warning is a bad rap even though they posted it, I think I read where Alliant couldn't reproduce the spike situation.???

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Posted: June 18 2012 at 3:33pm | IP Logged Quote 357_Sig

Thanks for the tip. I have thought about using this powder for the 44 mag also AA #9. I dont not mind wheighin charges. I currently weigh all charges for the 44 MAg & 357 Mag hunting rounds. I want all of them the same. The other handgun target rounds I just use the lee auto disk on the turret press.
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Posted: June 20 2012 at 11:13am | IP Logged Quote 357_Sig

So I got out the Lee Bulgebuster kit. I run the brass through the sizing die and the through the Pass thru die. Some of them went in easily and some took some force (not much, but some). Is it safe to assume that the ones that went through easily nad no bulge and the ones with force had a little bulge. I just want to make sure I am using it right before I load them up. I did follow the directions that came with it, I just want to hear your expierences. Thanks. I am about ready to start loading some of these up.
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Posted: June 20 2012 at 12:38pm | IP Logged Quote The_Shadow

Some are quite tough to recondition and may be expanded lower on the casing before the extractor cut...

Be sure to place the die high up on the stroke to utilize the best leverage at the top of the stroke while still letting the case to go completely inside the carbide ring. Some case heads a little tough, but as you have felt and seen they need the extra work to uniform the cases for best sizing and reconditioning.

Best regards and be safe!

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