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Desert Eagle41
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Posted: December 03 2016 at 10:16am | IP Logged Quote Desert Eagle41

Does old gun oil have any bad effects on polymer gun frames???? I think I have used it with no ill effect. Just wanted to know the real poop. Craig

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 03 2016 at 1:20pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Craig, most oils produced today have no effect on polymer components. Not the same story with solvents though. Much of the ammonia based solvents are prone to etching metal if in contact too long and are highly capable of dissolving polymer components in a short time. Some of the older oils are heavily petroleum based and thus will attack polymers in some cases.

My suggestion is simple. Read the literature provided by the company that produces the oil or solvent to insure it is safe on polymer components. Nearly all companies do provide such information in pamphlets and at websites. Then you will know exactly what the chemical is, or is not capable of. Some products will dissolve polymer, blueing, and stock finish if in contact for an amount of time.

On a personal note I have one rifle with a painted polymer stock. I clean and wipe preservatives on it every time I shoot it. In the seven years I've had this weapon there is not a spot of rust nor ANY loss of finish be it paint, blueing, or polymer components. In spite of numerous rounds both cast and jacketed there is no signs of wear and it appears like it just came off the dealer's rack. I used MPro 7 products and also Eezox with great success. Further, after locating a source for Ballistol, I use it extensively on my pistols and wooden stocked longguns. Ballistol will not damage any surface but will, in fact, enhance it. Does wonders for oil finished stocks and is a supurb cleaner and preservation oil. Great on leather as well like holsters and slings. And it won't eat your skin off either. Zero carcinogens in it. For a thicker oil for slides on autoloader I prefer Lucas Gun Oil (the standard red oil) as it really does stays put when applied and holds up to a multitude of rounds fired without any signs of breakdown. A hearty oil indeed that won't fling itself off the weapon but remains in place to lubricate no matter what.
Those are my personal best in my opinion. I'm sure others will disagree of course and that's their right in a free society yes? Bottom line, read the details about the product's specifications for reaction to polymer components.
Good shooting amigo!

Edited by Old Ranger on December 03 2016 at 1:24pm


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Desert Eagle41
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Posted: December 03 2016 at 2:18pm | IP Logged Quote Desert Eagle41

Hey thanks Old Ranger all great info. Craig

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Smitty500Mag
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Posted: December 03 2016 at 10:36pm | IP Logged Quote Smitty500Mag

The old stuff I use hasn't damaged any of my guns.

Hoppe's has been around since 1903 and 3-In-One-Oil has
been around since 1894.








Edited by Smitty500Mag on December 04 2016 at 5:46pm
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Desert Eagle41
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Posted: December 04 2016 at 8:14am | IP Logged Quote Desert Eagle41

I went shopping and ended up with Rem oil??? Don't know anything about it other than the cute sales girl said she used it on her shotgun and liked it. Enough said. Craig

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 04 2016 at 8:51am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Rem Oil is primarily mineral oil. A very low viscosity oil. Not the greatest for a high use lubricant but will not attack your polymer frame either.

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Desert Eagle41
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Posted: December 04 2016 at 2:10pm | IP Logged Quote Desert Eagle41

Thanks Ranger I put some on the slide in question and it was very noticeable smoother. Craig

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 04 2016 at 5:10pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

And it's endorsed by a cute young lass with a shotgun too!

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Desert Eagle41
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Posted: December 05 2016 at 9:45am | IP Logged Quote Desert Eagle41

She got my attention. The difference in our ages couldn't have been more than 40 years or so. Craig

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 05 2016 at 10:29am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Craig! You old dog you!
That's the spirit! We may be older (or just old) but we ain't dead neither! Salute!

Monday, my annual and then some supply of Ballistol arrived. A single 16oz metal bottle with an attachable spraying device and a single 6oz can of aerosol spray. With these two I will be able to clean, lube, and preserve all my firearms. Clean and preserve all my leather gear including my winter boots for waterproofing. And just about anything that needs a shot of oil like doors, locks, car doors and tailgate hinges, fretboard of guitars, electronics including potentiometers and switchs, and more. In short, everything! Wonderful stuff.

Edited by Old Ranger on December 06 2016 at 9:30am


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REM1875
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 9:56am | IP Logged Quote REM1875

I may be old fashioned but a girl who puts a little
Hoppe's No 9 behind the ears will get my attention.

CLP seems to get used here too.

I tried something called 'Italian Gun Grease' and
haven't found anything bad or extremely exciting to
say about their products. It's the grease I use on my
slides for pumps and autos though. I have used their
other lubricants too. (hey it was a free sample and I
did buy more)

WD- 40 had uses just not on primers. (does not seem to
work as well on arthritic joints as some say)     

OH heavens Kroll oil is just like horse lineament.
Once that seal is cracked there is no way to keep that
stuff from seeping out, but man that stuff works. I
suggest the can is keep on a plate or container and
definitely not on wood or concrete you don't want
oiled and stained.

I do have a tube a lithium bearing grease that gets
some use too usually on the presses. Applied with the
extremely handy long wooded cotton applicator (q-Tip)

This is what a klutz ends up with after years of
"getting stuff" (came with gun. given to me. came with
cleaning kit) and it no way should any of this be used
as endorsement. (other than Kroll oil)

However some of you are extremely knowledgeable about
oils and petroleum products (a reloading science all
to it self) and I do look forward to the whys and
wherefore of what you use.
I am willing to learn more just as long as it don't
cost a lot of money.

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Desert Eagle41
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 1:13pm | IP Logged Quote Desert Eagle41

I guess all are acceptable to some extent but I saw the girl again today and I think she steered me right. At leased that's what I told her. Craig

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Kosh75287
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 2:07pm | IP Logged Quote Kosh75287

Be careful about what oils and solvents you let get in contact with recoil buffers or similar add-ons. I ruined a couple using "Ed's Red" before I got a clue.
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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 2:51pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Want something that will protect and restore buffers, o-rings and such? Yes, Ballistol. I've used it even to revive nearly cracked open vacuum lines in my rez-rocket. Remarkable stuff.

Ex's Red contains too many non-polar components. Thus it fails to deposit sufficient amounts of preserving liquid in place. Even substituting kerosene with Kroil (a wise move , polar oil) in the mixture will still effect rubber, vinyl, paint, polymer, and such.

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John P.
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 6:51pm | IP Logged Quote John P.

For my Glocks I use M-Pro 7 for the barrel and a little on a patch for
real cruddy areas. Ballistol on the frame, and Hoppes oil at all the
lubrication points.
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Rex
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 7:37pm | IP Logged Quote Rex

A long time ago I came into a Browning A5 shotgun. I called the Browning service shop in Missouri and ask the foreman the correct way to lubricate the outside of the magazine tube that the friction ring rides on. He told me that Mr. Browning used motor oil on all friction points in the beginning and they hadn't ever quit doing so. Said that when the shop got low on lube someone went down to Walmart and got a case of whatever was on sale, then told me how to and how much to apply.
I still use a lot of motor oil to lube friction points.
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Smitty500Mag
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 8:33pm | IP Logged Quote Smitty500Mag

I use a thin coat of all purpose synthetic grease on my
semi auto pistol slides and also for all the contact
points on my AR-15s. It stays put longer than oil and no
it doesn't get hard over time or gum up anything. You
don't grease it like wheel bearings you just apply a thin
coat.



Edited by Smitty500Mag on December 06 2016 at 8:34pm
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REM1875
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Posted: December 06 2016 at 10:08pm | IP Logged Quote REM1875

Old Ranger wrote:
Want something that will protect
and restore buffers, o-rings and such? Yes, Ballistol.
I've used it even to revive nearly cracked open vacuum
lines in my rez-rocket. Remarkable stuff.

Ex's Red contains too many non-polar components. Thus
it fails to deposit sufficient amounts of preserving
liquid in place. Even substituting kerosene with Kroil
(a wise move , polar oil) in the mixture will still
effect rubber, vinyl, paint, polymer, and such.


I may try that on my old "widow maker" 1911 Winchester
shotgun buffers. Might be just what she needs.

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 07 2016 at 7:43am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

In the original Ed's Red, the only polarized property was the ATF, leaving solvent based ingredients taking up 75% of the solution. True enough most of the solvents evaporate leaving a light amount of the ATF behind. But is this enough to insure total adhesion to the metal? My study of this indicates a very thinned down amount remains and some of its antioxidants evaporated with the solvents or is spread too thin to serve as a genuine preservative. A polorized property is one that readily attaches itself to metal with a bonding effect.

I have substituted Kroil for the kerosene to increase to polarized oils in the mixture, and Kroil will aid in penetration of the grooves of the bore true enough. However, Kroil will in time, slowly start to break down and begin to gum up. I have left Ed's Red in my bore for only a few months as a short term preservative. Long term storage I'll coat the weapon with Ballistol or the old standby, Rig grease. But these days I basically use Ed's Red as a cleaning agent and preserve with a true oil product like Ballistol or Rig#2 oil.

I no longer use CLP on my weapons. It contains a mild amount of abrasives in the compound that over time will wear the blueing from the steel from wiping with a cloth or applied by a shaving brush. The abrasive is present of course to aid in cleaning but it wears upon the surface of the metal. I have actually removed a substantial amount of patina from an old knife with CLP with simple by-monthly wiping down with CLP and an old T-shirt. Continuous use will remove blueing and parkerized finishing.

Mobil 1 motor oil has been utilized for lubrication in competitive autoloader pistols for decades now and has proven to be a reliable synthetic oil product for use in firearms. Independent studies indicated that the lower viscosity, and low multi-viscosity oil is preferred. Reliable lubrication with substantial antioxidants lend to the preservation aspect of Mobil 1.

The above is based upon either personal experience and testing or from independent testing by corporate or individual participants.

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REM1875
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Posted: December 07 2016 at 9:21am | IP Logged Quote REM1875

Thank You Wade!!!
I will be far more careful about the use of CLP and
modify it's use till gone and will now collect dregs
from my Mobile one jugs and move them into the
reloading shed (as soon as the cold temps rise enough
that my finger work again)
I take it the ATF you mention is Automatic
Transmission Fluid (type F, DexronII, Synthetic?)

I knew there was a few with superior knowledge in this
subject and appreciate the opportunity to learn.

Do you recommend 10W-40 or will 10W-30 be ok for this
part of Texas? Just kidding.
I will have to see if my brothers Harley is using....
10w-120 yet.

Oddly enough these are some of the ingredients along
with lithium grease, paraffin and bee's wax in my
mystery bullet lube.(along with a few other secret
ingredients- that I wish I could remember)
It ain't pretty but it works

Edited by REM1875 on December 07 2016 at 6:31pm


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