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Ham Gunner
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Posted: December 07 2016 at 11:55am | IP Logged Quote Ham Gunner

I have not a clue what should be used on a polymer part.

Certainly Ed's Red bore solvent is intended for cleaning bores much like that for Hoppes #9 and never was intended to replace gun oil. It is a bore cleaner. It will prevent rust for a short period of time, certainly months, but the recommendation by Ed Harris himself of adding lanolin to the mixture for long term rust protection was recommended for a reason.

I suppose it is possible for bore cleaners and such doing damage to plastic or rubber parts, so one should be careful not to apply a bore cleaner to such parts. There is no plastic or rubber inside any of my bores and I have no problem keeping the bore cleaner out of my actions, etc. by properly utilizing my bore cleaning equipment.

For most all gun oil needs, Ed Harris recommended a mixture of 50/50 kerosene/ATF for use strictly as a gun oil and for many friction areas of firearms.

I don't believe there is really anything magic about cleaning and oiling, but I certainly am careful not to over oil or grease my guns. The triggers and actions should not be bathed in anything.

I have used 3-IN-ONE oil with no issues for over 50 years on my guns unless that part is better served with grease. For many years I usually used RIG, but now mostly use food grade white lubriplate. It certainly slicks up a trigger sear or bolt lug or slide rail on an auto and extreme cold does not seem to have any effect.


Edited by Ham Gunner on December 07 2016 at 12:12pm


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Kosh75287
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Posted: December 08 2016 at 9:18am | IP Logged Quote Kosh75287

While we're on the subject:

Hoppes No. 9 - The original (revised)
I was in search of homemade gun oil/gun cleaners, and came across this, which is almost right, but not quite. Ordinarily, the errors would be overlooked but this can result in substandard results. Rather than reply to a nearl 6-year old thread and give rise to a "Zombie Thread", I thought it might be better to start fresh. The original post from the older thread is below. My REVISION of the original post, with errors corrected, is below that. I hope this is of use to someone.

Quote:
Quote: Originally Posted by blr:
Anyone know the exact composition? A semi-through google search yielded:
5.0 oz ammonium oleate (CAS#544-60-5) (also known as ammonium soap) Could substitute lanolin but this would sacrifice its mild copper removal qualities.

8.5 oz amylacetate (CAS#544-60-5) ("banana oil")
2.0 oz nitro-benzene (the racing fuel additive)
8.5 oz K1 kerosene
8 oz neutral saponifiable oil (probably sperm [whale] oil, but ATF [may] be substituted

Which isn't it. I know, cause I made some of this. It's kinda close. Also, the saponifiable oil to use is Jojoba oil. It is almost exactly the same as whale oil, FYI.
Anyway, anybody know the entire list? Ratios would be nice.
MY REVISION:
5.0 oz ammonium oleate (CAS#:544-60-5) (aka: ammonium soap) Lanolin substitution sacrifices mild Cu removal qualities.
8.5 oz Isoamyl acetate (CAS#: 123-92-2) ("banana oil")
2.0 oz nitro-benzene (racing fuel additive)(CAS#: 98-95-3)
8.5 oz K1 kerosene (CAS#: 8008-20-6)
8 oz neutral saponifiable oil (CAS#: 90640-84-9) ATF may be substituted.

The main difference between them is mistaking Amyl Acetate ("Pear Oil") for ISOamyl Acetate (REAL "Banana Oil"), which undoubtedly contributed to the "close but not IT" odor or the un-revised formula. I don't fault the original poster for this, because Julian Hatcher made the same mistake, when he published HIS analysis of the original formulation. Amyl Acetate is far more soluble in water, which confers water removal activity. Iso-Amyl Acetate is miscible with aromatic constituents like nitrobenzene, toluene, xylene, etc, and would tend to enhance nitrobenzene's capacity to remove nitrogenous contaminants, while retaining its capacity to sequester oil-based waste products from smokeless powder combustion. Rather than a "one or the other" proposition, Hoppe's #9 may be a mixture of the two acetates, and their proportions are likely proprietary. Careful manipulation of there proportions would likely yield something very close in all respects.

Okay, end of chemistry lesson, I hope someone finds this of value.
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REM1875
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Posted: December 18 2016 at 2:32pm | IP Logged Quote REM1875

FYI It appears Ballistol is having a give away

http://ballistol.com

If I don't win it I guess it would best if one of y'all
won it


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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 18 2016 at 4:44pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Ballistol, mmmmmmm good fer da gun, da wood, 'n da leather stuff ya got. It fix me car tooo. Dat dar iz gud stuff.

Ya might just win some huh?

Just bought my annual supply last month. A pint can and a 6oz aerosol can. Good to go!

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LAH
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Posted: December 20 2016 at 8:44am | IP Logged Quote LAH

Old Ranger wrote:
Ballistol


Never used the stuff but if it keeps Old Ranger happy I
need to find some.

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 20 2016 at 9:04am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Lynn you won't regret using it. Used it some years back and it was dandy, but then I went and tried all sorts of other stuff only to return to Ballistol. Lessons Learned as I always say.

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Old Ranger
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Posted: April 18 2018 at 8:55am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Though not a good cleaner, Mobil 1 accelerates
lubrication and protection to a level all its own. We
know my admiration of Ballistol and its ability to
service and sustain weapons. However, it's costly and not
often seen on any gun shop's shelves. That that leaves
internet ordering. But Mobil 1 is at every auto parts
store and Wal-Mart in the country.

As stated, not a cleaner, but lube & protect? Oh yeah.
When you stop your car the oil goes to the drainpan
right? But a thin amount remains on all internal parts to
protect them and lube them when starting. Zero metal on
metal here. That's what your firearm needs as well.
Protection & lube.

Carbon is an abrasive. It's a byproduct of shooting. It's
deposited into every spot where there's moving parts.
Motor oil with detergent, like Mobil 1, has it. Detergent
oil suspends carbon rather than just rub over it in
metal. It saves wear..

Cost is a factor too. I recently bought a 4 oz can of Rig
2 for use with my .22 pistol with a painted frame.
Regular oils and solvents will eat that paint fast.
Rig 2 will not. Cost :$9.50 for a 4 ox can delivered.
RemOil, primarily mineral oil: $3 per 2 oz bottle. My
beloved Ballistol $16 and up per pint.

Mobil 1, $7.88 a quart.

Same as 8 cans of Rig 2 at $72! Or 16 bottles of RemOil
at $48! Or even Ballistol with 2 pints for around $50.

Recently I've been shooting and missing a lot ( )
with my 45 Colts. Unique, Universal, and Bullseye
powders. Charcoal burners! Tons of carbon deposits on
them!
But I've been oiling them and wiping them both down with
0w-20w Mobil 1 oil for a week now. Carbon on the exterior
comes off with a simple pass of a red cotton shop towel.
Cylinder faces and forcing cones are brushed clean in
seconds with a nylon toothbrush. Basepins are oiled with
it as well. They spin great even after extensive
shooting. Action is crisp and smooth with Mobil 1 on the
internal parts too.

The choice of 0w-20w was that the oil is thin when cold.
One does not need thick oil on guns. Slows them down.
Thin oil penetrates better and gets in between the close
tolerance parts of a firearm. Thick oil does not, and
essentially will slow down the function of the firearm.

So.... $72 for 8 cans of good light oil? Or nearly that
for a bunch of little bottles or a couple cans? Or.....
$7.88 for 32 oz of great lube?
Just food for thought.

Edited by Old Ranger on April 19 2018 at 7:01am


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Tom W.
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Posted: April 22 2018 at 5:40pm | IP Logged Quote Tom W.

I use RemOil for almost everything. It won't hurt the polymer frames. At
times I'll use Ballistol, and my steel bullet molds get a good squirt of
RemOil
after use. I never have to scrub them out, it burns out after a few casts.
I used to use WD-40 but it hardens into a yellow crud that's almost
impossible to get out.

Break Free CLP is good, but has an objectionable ( to me) fragrance,
and the can looses pressure in less than a year.....at least the one I had.

Edited by Tom W. on April 22 2018 at 5:42pm


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Smitty500Mag
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Posted: April 23 2018 at 8:24am | IP Logged Quote Smitty500Mag

I've been using Mobil 1 0W-20 for a while now on my old
Mitchell fishing reels that I collect and on my guns. It's
cheap and it works great on everything I've used it on. I
put it in a syringe in order to get to hard to reach
places.

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REM1875
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Posted: April 23 2018 at 10:18am | IP Logged Quote REM1875

Syringes and needles may be found in most farm stores or
those that handle horse -cattle supplies.
Larger, longer needles work best. Grind flat or with a
slight angle with dremel or stone because you won't need
one that sharp (believe injecting yourself with oil
accidentally is not fun)
I use them all the time. They do break down fairly fast.

Edited by REM1875 on April 23 2018 at 10:18am


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Old Ranger
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Posted: April 23 2018 at 4:10pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

I'd use them if I wasn't 100% terrified of needles!
So I use a General Mfg. oil dripper device.

No kiddin'. Come close to me with a needle and I'll pull
a pistol or attack with a nightstick!
But..... 0W-20 Mobil 1 is great stuff.
I concur with Smitty500Mag 100%.

Edited by Old Ranger on April 23 2018 at 4:10pm


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