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Ham Gunner
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Posted: December 07 2016 at 11:55am | IP Logged Quote Ham Gunner

I have not a clue what should be used on a polymer part.

Certainly Ed's Red bore solvent is intended for cleaning bores much like that for Hoppes #9 and never was intended to replace gun oil. It is a bore cleaner. It will prevent rust for a short period of time, certainly months, but the recommendation by Ed Harris himself of adding lanolin to the mixture for long term rust protection was recommended for a reason.

I suppose it is possible for bore cleaners and such doing damage to plastic or rubber parts, so one should be careful not to apply a bore cleaner to such parts. There is no plastic or rubber inside any of my bores and I have no problem keeping the bore cleaner out of my actions, etc. by properly utilizing my bore cleaning equipment.

For most all gun oil needs, Ed Harris recommended a mixture of 50/50 kerosene/ATF for use strictly as a gun oil and for many friction areas of firearms.

I don't believe there is really anything magic about cleaning and oiling, but I certainly am careful not to over oil or grease my guns. The triggers and actions should not be bathed in anything.

I have used 3-IN-ONE oil with no issues for over 50 years on my guns unless that part is better served with grease. For many years I usually used RIG, but now mostly use food grade white lubriplate. It certainly slicks up a trigger sear or bolt lug or slide rail on an auto and extreme cold does not seem to have any effect.


Edited by Ham Gunner on December 07 2016 at 12:12pm


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Kosh75287
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Posted: December 08 2016 at 9:18am | IP Logged Quote Kosh75287

While we're on the subject:

Hoppes No. 9 - The original (revised)
I was in search of homemade gun oil/gun cleaners, and came across this, which is almost right, but not quite. Ordinarily, the errors would be overlooked but this can result in substandard results. Rather than reply to a nearl 6-year old thread and give rise to a "Zombie Thread", I thought it might be better to start fresh. The original post from the older thread is below. My REVISION of the original post, with errors corrected, is below that. I hope this is of use to someone.

Quote:
Quote: Originally Posted by blr:
Anyone know the exact composition? A semi-through google search yielded:
5.0 oz ammonium oleate (CAS#544-60-5) (also known as ammonium soap) Could substitute lanolin but this would sacrifice its mild copper removal qualities.

8.5 oz amylacetate (CAS#544-60-5) ("banana oil")
2.0 oz nitro-benzene (the racing fuel additive)
8.5 oz K1 kerosene
8 oz neutral saponifiable oil (probably sperm [whale] oil, but ATF [may] be substituted

Which isn't it. I know, cause I made some of this. It's kinda close. Also, the saponifiable oil to use is Jojoba oil. It is almost exactly the same as whale oil, FYI.
Anyway, anybody know the entire list? Ratios would be nice.
MY REVISION:
5.0 oz ammonium oleate (CAS#:544-60-5) (aka: ammonium soap) Lanolin substitution sacrifices mild Cu removal qualities.
8.5 oz Isoamyl acetate (CAS#: 123-92-2) ("banana oil")
2.0 oz nitro-benzene (racing fuel additive)(CAS#: 98-95-3)
8.5 oz K1 kerosene (CAS#: 8008-20-6)
8 oz neutral saponifiable oil (CAS#: 90640-84-9) ATF may be substituted.

The main difference between them is mistaking Amyl Acetate ("Pear Oil") for ISOamyl Acetate (REAL "Banana Oil"), which undoubtedly contributed to the "close but not IT" odor or the un-revised formula. I don't fault the original poster for this, because Julian Hatcher made the same mistake, when he published HIS analysis of the original formulation. Amyl Acetate is far more soluble in water, which confers water removal activity. Iso-Amyl Acetate is miscible with aromatic constituents like nitrobenzene, toluene, xylene, etc, and would tend to enhance nitrobenzene's capacity to remove nitrogenous contaminants, while retaining its capacity to sequester oil-based waste products from smokeless powder combustion. Rather than a "one or the other" proposition, Hoppe's #9 may be a mixture of the two acetates, and their proportions are likely proprietary. Careful manipulation of there proportions would likely yield something very close in all respects.

Okay, end of chemistry lesson, I hope someone finds this of value.
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REM1875
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Posted: December 18 2016 at 2:32pm | IP Logged Quote REM1875

FYI It appears Ballistol is having a give away

http://ballistol.com

If I don't win it I guess it would best if one of y'all
won it


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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 18 2016 at 4:44pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Ballistol, mmmmmmm good fer da gun, da wood, 'n da leather stuff ya got. It fix me car tooo. Dat dar iz gud stuff.

Ya might just win some huh?

Just bought my annual supply last month. A pint can and a 6oz aerosol can. Good to go!

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LAH
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Posted: December 20 2016 at 8:44am | IP Logged Quote LAH

Old Ranger wrote:
Ballistol


Never used the stuff but if it keeps Old Ranger happy I
need to find some.

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Old Ranger
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Posted: December 20 2016 at 9:04am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Lynn you won't regret using it. Used it some years back and it was dandy, but then I went and tried all sorts of other stuff only to return to Ballistol. Lessons Learned as I always say.

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