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CDE
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Posted: May 27 2017 at 8:31pm | IP Logged Quote CDE

I have always used lee liquid alox for
lube with good results, but the tackiness
of the line always made me nervous about
dropping a round in the sand or just
collecting dust debris from the air. I
stumbled across a new toaster oven for $13
and my tests started. The local Harbor
freight had some paint. Using the shake &
bake method I was able to achieve fairly
good coverage baking them at 350 degrees
for 20 minutes. The bullets were easy to
size with my lee sizers. Having put them
through tests ranging from mild to wild in
357, 41 mag, 44 mag, 45 Colt, 30-30, 45-
70, I have come to the conclusion powder
coating is a viable alternative to lube. I
also like the fact I can color coordinate
bullets so you can visually see 44
mag(white) 45 Colt (orange) 41 mag(yellow)
... Curious if anyone else has tried
powder coating.

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Slick
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Posted: May 27 2017 at 9:27pm | IP Logged Quote Slick

I can't give you actual advice - but I have found a fellow on Youtube who really has lots of excellent information for reloaders. One of his areas of expertise is in working with powder-coating cast bullets.

There's lots of really helpful information from this fellow (Fortune Cookie 45), so give his videos a look-see->

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXrn3Tq9XDpfV3H7grv3U ghpc0rFmpd6k

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

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Bohica793
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Posted: May 28 2017 at 4:42am | IP Logged Quote Bohica793

I have powder coated off and on with excellent results. I will probably be powder coating some heavy 30 cal for my new 300 Blackout. I have found that I got better coverage by curing at 400 degrees for 20 minutes (make sure your oven is preheated and that the temperature reading is correct). The biggest problem I encountered was getting the bullets to standup for the curing process. The hands are just not as steady as they used to be.

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CDE
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Posted: May 28 2017 at 5:54am | IP Logged Quote CDE

I agree 400 degrees is the target point,
but after experimenting with my toaster
oven 350 degrees does not deform any of
the bullets. Good point about pre heating
oven. I also have used the smash test to
assure curing is complete. I have heard
there are much better paints than harbor
freight, but have not ventured there yet.

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Old Ranger
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Posted: May 28 2017 at 11:17am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

I tried the bake on business for a while. Used HiTech system. Costly in a way and the results were not all that wonderful. In the end I abandoned the painted bullets and returned to conventional lube and LLA for my undersized pistol bullets in .38Spl.

The process must be done outdoors or at least in an open and well ventilated area. The fumes are toxic! So I had to mix, coat, dry, bake, and do this all TWICE to insure complete coverage. All outside. It gets well over 100 deg. here in the summmer with an average of 78% humidity. Rains often. So further dependance upon weather, the time involved, the mess, and such I said no more. There was no advantage to this at all and in fact it was downright inconvient.

As to the fear of dirt on the bullets with the wax-like surface, think about the old .22LR. It's waxed and they've done fine since 1865 or so. Besides, have you actually dropped a round in the dirt? A quick rub or two takes off the dust and you're good to go. Wouldn't you do the same with a painted bullet? Or would you just pick it up and shoot it if it got dropped in the dirt? Not being argumentive here, just thought of an old man.

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Ronnieboy
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Posted: May 28 2017 at 12:06pm | IP Logged Quote Ronnieboy

I to done the painted bullet thing. was not impressed,like old ranger said, lots of time and effort for little gain, only thing was, pretty copper colored lead, hahah, I think it would be less time and equipment to paper patch all Pb.   Or like I do now, just 45/45/10 with Johnson's paste wax doing a great job. I guess to each his own. Just enjoy and shoot lots to save more money.   hahahhaha   not.  ;  


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RECURVE
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Posted: May 28 2017 at 4:14pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

I've had good luck with my coating. I watch Elvis ammo on
you tube good info
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Slick
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Posted: June 05 2017 at 10:24am | IP Logged Quote Slick

RECURVE wrote:
I've had good luck with my coating. I watch Elvis ammo on
you tube good info


A BIG +1 on Elvis Ammo. Between him and Fortune Cookie, they've come up with enough refinements to the process that I'm now planning to give powder coating a try.

Here's a direct link to Elvis' tutorials

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqq2Xh4H4VnMjZemwjTLW0w

These guys have the process down to where they can powder coat in the same time or less than traditional methods. For me the big attraction to powder coating is that it apparently makes brinell hardness far less of a factor in barrel leading. I buy really cheap lead and while I know the source, I can't always know what the alloy balance is.

Edited by Slick on June 05 2017 at 10:28am


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John D
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Posted: June 26 2017 at 12:30pm | IP Logged Quote John D

CDE wrote:
I agree 400 degrees is the target point,
but after experimenting with my toaster
oven 350 degrees does not deform any of
the bullets. Good point about pre heating
oven. I also have used the smash test to
assure curing is complete. I have heard
there are much better paints than harbor
freight, but have not ventured there yet.


Check with Smoke4320 over on Castboolits. He sells high
quality paint. His paint is the best i've used. He offers
a trial pack which includes 4 (1/4 lb. bags) in your
choice of colors..
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John Van Gelder
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Posted: July 07 2017 at 11:00am | IP Logged Quote John Van Gelder

Powder coating seems to be pretty labor intensive. I have friend in BC that shoots IDP and he uses a lot of the powder coated bullets.

Myself I am a fan of shooting my bullets as cast with a bit of liquid alox on them.
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richhodg66
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Posted: July 07 2017 at 11:19am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

John Van Gelder wrote:
Powder coating seems to be pretty labor intensive. I have friend in BC that shoots IDP and he uses a lot of the powder coated bullets.

Myself I am a fan of shooting my bullets as cast with a bit of liquid alox on them.


This has been my conclusion as well.

About the only thing I think I would like it for is that it can add a thousandth or two in diameter to a bullet which could be useful in some limited situations, but for general use, I'll stick with conventional lubes.

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John Van Gelder
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Posted: July 07 2017 at 12:21pm | IP Logged Quote John Van Gelder

A couple of years ago I found a video on Youtube, a fellow in Australia as I recall was tumbling his bullets in some sort of epoxy paint, he was not baking them just letting them air dry and he was getting good results. I started thinking about that again when I found an add for an epoxy gun finish from Brownells it is Aluma Hyde. Pretty tough stuff, and cheaper than some of the alternatives, seems like it might work for a bullet coating.

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Old Ranger
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Posted: July 08 2017 at 11:48am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Good luck with that business. I went the powdered mix with acetone to make liquid paint. Did it by the book and had fair results. Lost accuracy as a result. But in the end; FAR TOO TOXIC !! Way too labor intensive, and lots of time invested that could be better used. After 6 months and hundreds of rounds later, I abandoned it and returned to conventionally lubricated bullets and accuracy returned too.

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John Van Gelder
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Posted: July 09 2017 at 5:14am | IP Logged Quote John Van Gelder

My best results are with a mix of 50/50 Alox and beeswax, applied with my old sizer lubricator. for high speed loads with soft alloy I paper patch. I roll on the patch and then size the patched bullet. They work really well and the only other tool than my sizer is a pair of scissors. Still quicker than two applications of paint/etc.   
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RECURVE
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Posted: July 09 2017 at 4:14pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

I size after powder coating no problem recoverd fired
bullets in dirt looked good to me
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res45
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Posted: July 16 2017 at 9:37am | IP Logged Quote res45

I've been powder coating off and on for the last couple of years. I especially like it for all my pistol bullet that I do in big batches as they are much easier to store long term and they shoot very accurately as well. I do some rifle bullets but I still like using my RCBS Lube A Matic especially for my gas check bullets. I still have a good supply of Alox/JPW lube that I use on occasion as well.

I haven't found the PC to be labor intensive as I can have about 100 bullets coated and ready to go in the over while it's warming up. While the first batch is baking I can get another 100 ready for the oven. So for an hour or so I can usually get around 400 to 500 bullets coated depending on how many I put on the tray.

Here are a few I PC don't mind the strange colors as I was playing around with some color mixing one day.


Edited by res45 on July 16 2017 at 12:38pm
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John Van Gelder
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Posted: July 16 2017 at 2:24pm | IP Logged Quote John Van Gelder

Those are some good looking projectiles, almost too pretty to shoot..
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RECURVE
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Posted: July 16 2017 at 3:54pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

Res45 seems like the I get better coat with a mix of red
and yellow just me probly 5red to 3 yellows?
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