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Subject Topic: Winchester Model 1905 in cal 35 Win SL Post ReplyPost New Topic
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GregT
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Posted: 24 November 2017 at 7:58pm | IP Logged Quote GregT

Just picked up one of these today. Made in the first production year of 1905, serial number under 2500. Thought someone may have some personal use info or handloading experience with it. Rifle was carried a lot and fired little. Has a mirror mint bore. Any help appreciated.
GregT

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richhodg66
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Posted: 25 November 2017 at 6:54am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Not with a 1905 but have successfully loaded for and hunted with a 1907 in .351 WSL. Sounds like you got a winner, those aren't common and to find one in that kind of condition is great.

In the .351, 4227 is supposedly the best powder going. I used 2400 because it was what I had. Brass isn't real easy to fins, but can be had. Undersized .35 caliber bullets were a headache, but being a bullet caster, I got that kind of figured out.

Hate to bust a lot of people's bubbles, but I loaded mine on an old set of .357 magnum dies and used a .38 super die for some stage of it and it worked fine. I have since picked up a proper set and will use those when I get back to it. There are a lot of guys out there who over think the 1907s, it's a pretty straight forward cartridge once you get started.

Remember, these are straight blow back and have a buffer that can be worn out an is difficult to replace. They are also hard on brass. Something I was considering doing with mine is cutting down the rims on some .357 or .38 special brass to work and just loading them light for target shooting and accepting the fact that I'd have to manually cycle the rifle. Again, I haven't really wrung mine out yet with all the possibilities.

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GregT
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Posted: 25 November 2017 at 9:36pm | IP Logged Quote GregT

richhodg66,
     Thank you for the reply. In regard to my Model 1905, it had the usual cracked wood forend and I repaired that with epoxy. Interesting in that I have heard that un-cracked forends are the exception. Found that nothing was rubbing that would cause this type of cracking. I blame it on dry thin wood. I have a set of 35 Win SL full length dies coming from CH4D. I ordered a two cavity brass mold from Accurate Molds tonight. Slugging the grooves in the barrel told me I had .352" to work with. If things work out with the bullet, I will use them as-cast and pan lube them with NRA 50/50 lube. I trimmed the rim on a Federal FL sized .38 Special casing and it slipped right into the chamber! I pushed the action plunger(?) and the casing ejected just fine! So, if I crush a few while I'm figuring out the powder charge to get the action to function, I won't shed too many tears.
I also checked the recoil buffers (The Model '05 has 2 buffers that are stacked). They are in the open and not in a little housing as in the '07 Model. Both buffers are like new. I did order some extras from Numrich Gun Parts.I am probably going to use the rifle for killing water-filled milk jugs. If I have any ground hogs that show up this summer, that caliber might be good for them at 50 yards range. From what I see of written ballistics, Winchester seems to have produced a .357 Magnum (1400fps,180 grain bullet) type cartridge that they ran in a .38 Special size case, using 1905 era brass! Looking back 112 years as to when my rifle was made, this was unheard of, and today this is certainly not advised. The 351 Win SL is 400 fps hotter in a longer casing. In its day the 35 Win SL cartridge was considered almost useless!
Regards,
GregT

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