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Toofarr24
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Posted: December 08 2017 at 6:52pm | IP Logged Quote Toofarr24

Have a model 99 savage lever gun I
inherited. Looking for a good hand load
for it!
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nhblaze
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Posted: December 09 2017 at 6:53am | IP Logged Quote nhblaze

Welcome

Do you have the link to Hodgdon's data
add it to your favorites.

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com

I always had the best luck with IMR-4064
38 to a max of 40 grs with a 150gr Hornady Interlock
I used Federal 210 primers, with this load any large rifle primer should work fine.

With the model 99 make sure all your brass is trimmed
to the correct length, or a tad shorter. Some had tight
chambers.

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richhodg66
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Posted: December 09 2017 at 7:11am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

IMR 4320 and IMR 4064. It's not a real picky cartridge in my experience. Lots of load data out there for it. Don't believe all the BS about the short neck being problematic either, I've found it simply isn't an issue.

Have only really loaded cast in my .300s but worked with a Remington 722 in .300 for my brother. Seems like pretty much any 150-165 grain .30 caliber bullet and basic powders that are good for the .308 work in the .300 Savage. It's not something you can walk into Wal Mart and buy, but .300 Savage ammo is out there and I didn't have to look far for some when I got my first one. Brass is around, but if you have to, it's simply enough formed from .308 brass, just be prepared to do a lot of case trimming.

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richhodg66
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Posted: December 09 2017 at 8:18am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

By the way, Savage 99s are simply wondrous things. I have several, but honestly, the 99EG, the most common one in .300 Savage, the most common chambering, is probably the best one. So graceful in the hands and the slickest action of all of them. Mine isn't drilled for a scope and I like it with a Lyman peep sight. As good a deer rifle as has ever been built.

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Rex
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Posted: December 09 2017 at 10:38am | IP Logged Quote Rex

Mine isn't drilled for a scope and I like it with a Lyman peep sight. As good a deer rifle as has ever been built.[/QUOTE]

Rich, you are starting to sound like Wade now.
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richhodg66
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Posted: December 09 2017 at 3:20pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

I quit trying to fool myself into believing I was going to deer hunt at long range a while ago. Pretty sure I have yet to shoot one over 100 yards, most are much, much closer. Irons work for me. Now for very small targets like squirrels and such, I like my scopes.

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hoghunter
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Posted: December 14 2017 at 5:54pm | IP Logged Quote hoghunter

I've been hunting deer for 40+ years and have taken quite a
few. Never shot one over 185 yards, most have been in the
50 to 125 yard range; well within the capability of the 300
Savage.

With that said, all my hunting has been in the eastern
woods of PA. While I never owned a 300 Savage I would feel
very comfortable with it where I hunt.

I imagine western hunters have longer range requirements
but for the eastern hunter the 300 Savage would be fine.
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richhodg66
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Posted: December 14 2017 at 7:34pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Just realized the Savage 99EG in .300 I mentioned is the one in my avatar.

A quick look at my Hornady loading manual I keep handy tells me the .300 Savage gives up darn little to the .308 Winchester ballistics wise, at least with 150 grain bullets. It's flat enough shooting to be a pretty long range proposition on deer if you need it to be.



This one was almost within what I consider bow range. Load was the 311041 with 28 grains of IMR 4895 and a tuft of Dacron on top. Worked great. The year before I killed a good buck from the same stand with a 99 in .308 using a very similar loading, and two years after that, I killed two does from that same stand with a 1907 Winchester in .351 WSl with cast that was a considerable step down in power from the 99s. In between, there were a couple with a crossbow from the same stand.

Yeah, long range is over rated. Do your homework and set up an ambush plan accordingly and you'll have venison.

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hoghunter
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Posted: December 15 2017 at 7:10pm | IP Logged Quote hoghunter

I hear you richhodg66 and you're singing my tune.

I may have mentioned this before in a prior post but it
may be worth repeating, my father took 18 bucks with a
30-30 open sight Winchester Model 94 using factory
Remington ammo. He also shot a bunch of does, how many I
can't say for sure.

He was twice the hunter I ever was or will be. He also
was an excellent field shot perhaps because he was a WWII
era veteran and learn how to shoot in the Army.

He never kept one rack or cared about the size of the
rack as long as it was legal which in those days you
could shoot a spike buck, min 3". He did take a few 6 and
8 points. However he was all about the meat for food.

Granted all hunting was done in the deep wood of northern
PA in which shots were normally under 150 yards but it
just goes to show what can be done with an open sight
rifle in the hands of a good hunter and field shooter.
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Toofarr24
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Posted: December 15 2017 at 8:22pm | IP Logged Quote Toofarr24

I'm loving all the stories! This
particular model 99 was my grandpa's rifle
. He never put a scope on it. He had lost
one of his legs above the knee from an
industrial accident so for the most part
he used it as a walking stick! So the butt
end had a couple of scratches, and Nicks
but, overall, it is amazing. When he died,
my mom inherited it, and my dad put a
scope on it. She recently gave it to me.
The first thing I did was tore it down and
gave it a good cleaning! I was cleaning
factory grease out of it! It is so
amazing, smooth, and scary accurate!
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res45
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Posted: December 18 2017 at 7:24pm | IP Logged Quote res45

I have the Sav. 99 E series in 300 Sav. I've had the rifle longer than I can remember but haven't shot it much until recently. I got the rifle from my brother with the original sights missing. I never found any replacements so I just put a scope on it using some mounts I already had, I need to get some low profile mounts but these will do for now.




Although brass is available I started making my own brass from once fired .308 Win. an 7.62 NATO cases, it's an easy conversion an with my cast bullet loads I get about 50 fps. added MV over the .308 cases with the 7.62 NATO converted brass with an identical load. I've shot a few jacketed rds. through it but I prefer to just shoot cast lead as the 150 to 170 gr. FN bullets will do anything I need to do.

Here is a 5 shot group I recently shot, need some time to work up some warmer loads. This load was running just over 1700 fps.





Edited by res45 on December 18 2017 at 7:30pm
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richhodg66
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Posted: December 18 2017 at 8:03pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Did you restock that rifle? That beaver tail forend and monte carlo stock look a lot nicer than the wood on the E models usually was.

I like my 99E in .308 a lot too.





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res45
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Posted: December 18 2017 at 8:09pm | IP Logged Quote res45

richhodg66 wrote:
Did you restock that rifle? That beaver tail forend and monte carlo stock look a lot nicer than the wood on the E models usually was.


It's the original wood but I did refinish it. The finish was some type of fake wood type finish that was easily scratched off so I just removed it an gave it a good hand rubbed oil finish.
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richhodg66
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Posted: December 19 2017 at 3:48am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

I have enough .300 brass to last a long time, but just for curiosity's sake, how do you make .300 from military 7.62 brass? I ran a .308 case all the way into a .300 Savage sizer just for grins once and got discouraged by how much trimming of the neck was gonna be required so I stopped there, but if a guy had a trim die for the .300 and a good hack saw, it might be worthwhile as long as you don't have to ream or turn necks to get it to work.

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res45
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Posted: December 19 2017 at 4:55am | IP Logged Quote res45

richhodg66 wrote:
I have enough .300 brass to last a long time, but just for curiosity's sake, how do you make .300 from military 7.62 brass? I ran a .308 case all the way into a .300 Savage sizer just for grins once and got discouraged by how much trimming of the neck was gonna be required so I stopped there, but if a guy had a trim die for the .300 and a good hack saw, it might be worthwhile as long as you don't have to ream or turn necks to get it to work.


As far as the brass goes the external dimensions of 7.62 NATO and .308 Win are exactly the same it's the internal capacity of the cases that are different so you have to adjust your load accordingly. I simply just lubed the cases with Lee case lube and run them through an RCBS 30-06 FL resizing die first to resize the base on the 7.62 NATO cases as sometimes they can be overexpanded an make reforming harder, then I just lubed the case again an run it through the Lyman .300 Sav. FL resizing die to reform the shoulder and neck.

Next, I used my Lyman table top case trimmer with the power assist shaft and a cordless drill to trim the case length close and finished trimming to the correct OAL with my Lee case length gauge and cutter, chamfered, deburred and removed the primer pocket crimp and gave them a final tumbling and they were basically ready to reload. I didn't find the need to ream or turn the case necks as it appears the 99's chamber dimensions are large enough to chamber even a .311" Dia. cast lead bullet with no issues.



Edited by res45 on December 19 2017 at 5:02am
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richhodg66
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Posted: December 19 2017 at 5:10am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Easy enough. Always glad to see innovation to solve problems.

I have found all the 99s I have tried cast in to be good shooters. In fact, I own two .300 Savage rifles, the 99EG pictured and a Savage Model 1920 bolt action and crazy as it sounds, the 99EG will consistently outshoot the bolt gun, though it's plenty good enough with cast for me to hunt with.

I size all my .308 calibers to .311, the 99s eat 'em up that way. Never tried 2400 in them, but have used it with cast in the '06 and it works pretty well. Both the deer in the pictures fell to a charge of 28 grains of IMR 4895, obviously a hotter load in the .300 than in the .308. The .300 was the NOE clone of the Lyman 311041 and the .308 was the Ranchdog 165 grain .30-30 bullet. Both did fine and neither deer went far.

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nhblaze
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Posted: December 19 2017 at 12:27pm | IP Logged Quote nhblaze

Hi RES45

How ya doing Ronnie.

Good to hear from you.

We need to hear more from you
around here !!

Brian

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Paul B.
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Posted: December 19 2017 at 1:16pm | IP Logged Quote Paul B.

I don't have a .300 Sav. but I do have a Ruger M77 RSI that thinks it's
one. No joke. It's the Ruger with the wood all the way to the muzzle
and an 18.5" barrel. I got into it very cheaply as the former owner said
it was too inaccurate to keep. I like the style and feel of the rifle so I
bought it.
Cheap. The guy wasn't lying. That rifle did not shoot groups, it shot
patterns that would make a cylinder bore shotgun proud.
Too keep a too long story short, after trying just about every
appropriate load for a .308 I could find, I decided let's get
inappropriate. Long story short, a 165 gr. Speer Hot Core and W760
powder finally got me grounds that fit my rather loose standard for a
hunting rifle. That's 1.5" or less at 100 yards. Frankly I do prefer less
but sometimes one must make do. Best that load will do is 2550 FPS
which places it more in line with a hot .300 Sav. than a slow .308. No
matter, it kills deer very nicely.

Now here's the real killer. Change to any other 165 gr. bullet and it's
back to shotgun patterns. It's a good thing I have a good supply of the
Speer bullets.
Paul B.
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res45
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Posted: December 19 2017 at 4:13pm | IP Logged Quote res45

nhblaze wrote:
Hi RES45

How ya doing Ronnie.

Good to hear from you.

We need to hear more from you
around here !!

Brian


Hi Brian, it's good to hear from you, I tend to be on the Forums during the Winter months more when it gets dark early and it's too cold to do much outside.

I'll try to make my presence around here more often lots of molds, casting, powder coating and reloading to talk about.

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Just-Jim
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Posted: December 24 2017 at 11:35am | IP Logged Quote Just-Jim

Heres how I remake .308
Win into 300 Savage the 2nd part should be in the links on
the side. as to the amount of material to be removed I
used my case length trimmer with a drill on it. Once this
is all done and before I load I tumble in my Stainless
steel pin tumbler. By the way I am using my Late
fathers 1956 model 99
How I do
it


Edited by Just-Jim on December 24 2017 at 11:41am
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