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Subject Topic: Pistol cleaning in the field. Post ReplyPost New Topic
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Old Ranger
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Posted: June 20 2018 at 4:24pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Question arose on cleaning BP revolvers in the field.
Here's my take on keeping it simple.

1. Pull the cylinder. If a Colt C&B, that also includes
the barrel.

2. With a damp cloth, wipe everything down to remove as
much exterior fouling you can. Believe me it comes off
quickly.

3. Run a wet [plain water] patch through the bore. And
another to get the bore good and wet. Do the same for a
cartridge cylinder. From back to front. Followed by dry
patches. A couple dry patches and it should be clean.

4. Cap & Ball Cylinder. Take a toothbrush and clean
around the nipples. Allow a small amount of water to
enter all chambers. Then using a very wet patch, drive it
into one chamber. Like a piston, the jag on the rod will
force water through the nipple with hydrolic pressure. Be
sure to point it away from you. Fresh wet patch and pump
a bit more. Then follow with dry patches.
Hint: a mixture of Ballistol & water here is quite handy.
The two mix well, but as the water evaporates the oil
remains.. Also run a patch through the basepin hole in
the cylinder. Especially on C&B revolvers!

5. With a wet patch, wipe down the hammer, basepin/arbor,
and frame. Anywhere you see fouling. Follow with a dry
rag.

6. Ballistol is you friend with BP, but DO use oil! Oil
patches in bore and chambers. Oil the entire gun!.
Ballistol won't hurt grips either. Actually its good for
em!

7. Oil all moving parts and reassemble.

8. Following day poke an oil patch down the bore and
chambers. Sometimes a missed spot will show up. Also,
some BP substitutes will "linger" on metal surfaces.
Gotta watch for that as if left unchecked corrosion will
set in fast! I'm talking pitting and rust!

Well that's my quick and easy cleaning in the field. And
pretty much at home too.

One can use Fantastik spray cleaner for instant carbon
removal. I use Fabuloso mixed with water now for super
quick clean up. I can do a big 2nd Mod Colt Dragoon
complete in about fives minutes. Faster than cleaning my
S&W .38Spl M&P 4" with conventional cleaning gear and
smokeless powder used.

Remember to keep em oiled. Not dripping, but a light coat
all over. A shaving brush is the absolute best thing to
distribute oil onto every surface and into any crevice on
the weapon. Three drops on a shaving brush and I can oil
and coat my .50cal. Hawken. Or a 1911A1, Colt 44 Dragoon,
you name it. A pistol is oiled and preserving coat in
place in 60 seconds. Great for getting oil all around the
nipples on a C&B wheelgun.

Ok, that's pretty much it. Not hard or complicated. No
full disassembly! Not needed. I've seen guys tear down
their revolver down to the last screw. Absolutely
uncalled for. Wipes it down. Dry it. Oil it. Simple



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John P.
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Posted: June 20 2018 at 7:00pm | IP Logged Quote John P.

Thanks Wade. I am going with the Ballistol and water mix. You
confirmed what I read, that the Ballistol is left behind after the water
evaporates. I use straight Ballistol most of the time now on my
smokeless firearms.

I wondered about the complete tear down too. I have seen a couple of
videos where the entire frame was stripped.

As far as substitutes, I am done with Pyrodex. I will use Triple Seven in
my T/C inline, and I will try APP if I can find it. In my Hawken Pyrodex
would start to rust the barrel within minutes. After cleaning I would have
to polish the bore with a tight patch covered with bore butter on a jag.

Thanks again
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Old Ranger
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Posted: June 20 2018 at 8:25pm | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

T7 is a sugar based powder and really hot! And it too
will eat metal like Pyrodex will. Very resist to
cleaning. Just an FYI.

Good call on the Ballistol mix. Real handy.

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Dave T
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Posted: July 20 2018 at 8:41am | IP Logged Quote Dave T

I have been shooting Black-MZ lately in 45 Colt revolvers and have learned the
best clean up for them is the same as it was 25 years ago when I was shooting
BP in 1st Gen Colts.

Water is your friend! A little soap will make the water wetter and I have been
putting a dollop of Simple Green in a gallon of water. Still, just plain water will
do the job.

Dave

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Old Ranger
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Posted: July 20 2018 at 10:34am | IP Logged Quote Old Ranger

Dave's post just jogged my memory here.

Besides Ballistol for oiling and the cool mixture for
cleaning, I remembered another oil that is dynamite on
killing the BP residue. Eezox! Just the opposite of
Ballistol being a fully synthetic oil opposed to
Ballistol's all natural content. But like Ballistol,
Eezox eats BP residue. Neutralizes it on the spot.

Won't mix with water, but after a water cleaning and
drying, a light application of Eezox allowed to dry, will
100% lube and protect the metal. Best part is being dry,
you don't need to bust 6 caps everytime you load. Eezox,
when dry, doesn't effect powder nor primers, that
includes caps too. Plus fouling is almost fully repelled
by it too. Cleaning is a snap! When done, a light
brushing of a few drops of Eezox on a shaving brush and
set your weapon aside an hour. Then its dry, lubed,
preserved, ready to load or store at your leisure. The
solvents evaporate and leaves 100% coverage of synthetics
that bond to the metal for protection and lubrication.

Where Ballistol will emulsify with water, Eezox will not.
In fact if you put a drop of Eezox in a cup of water
it'll go strait to the bottom. Heavier than water. It
sticks to metal well. My long term storage oil is Eezox.
Used to use Rig grease, but Eezox is just as good without
the mess. Use Eezox regularly and carbon just wipes off
and leading and copper fouling are reduced too.

Seldom seen in any store, Eezox is one of those "well
kept secrets" I guess one hears about now and then. But
internet sites sell it and I always reorder when I'm down
to half a can. Eezox and Ballistol are two oils that are
extremely great CLP's that I will NEVER be without!

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