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richhodg66
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Posted: November 17 2018 at 8:05pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

I have done this with rifle bullets, but haven't used them for hunting (yet). Ross Seyfried wrote this article in '89 for Guns and Ammo, I just ran across it, thought it might interest others.

https://www.docdroid.net/udgc/june-1989.pdf

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JD45
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Posted: November 18 2018 at 2:20am | IP Logged Quote JD45

He was one of my favorite writers. I still have those old magazines. His article in Guns and Ammo on casting in general is a great one too.
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richhodg66
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Posted: November 18 2018 at 3:23am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

I liked him too. We really don't seem to have the quality of gun writers we used to anymore.

This technique isn't new, and it is slow and tedious. There's a detailed thread about it on another forum. I personally think it would be unnecessary for big bore pistol rounds and though I've never shot game with one from a hand gun, I have killed several deer with .44 SWCs in an inline which I'm sure didn't expand going through and they work quite well.

The ones I cast were RCBS 180 grain FP .30 calibers and because they weighed over 190 grains and 1900 FPS is easily accomplished with them, I intended to duplicate the original factory loading in the .303 Savage. Another project I need to get back to eventually.

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doghawg
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Posted: November 24 2018 at 3:48pm | IP Logged Quote doghawg

richhodg66

Thanks for posting this. A few years ago I bought a couple LBT molds from a gent who quit casting. One was a .432" diameter 320 gr. LFNGC and the the other was a .476" 380 gr. LFN. He said "You might as well take this too" and threw in a soft nose LBT mold with a cavity for each bullet style. This soft nose mold would certainly simplify trying to get the soft nose portions uniform in weight and square. I use the molds for .44 Mag and .475 Linebaugh but have never attempted to try the soft nose critter. The soft nose mold throws bullet noses to the top crimp groove and with a flat base. I don't know what the procedure is from there....put the soft nose in the the regular mold and pour hard alloy on top of it? Never tried and neither did the original owner. Mold is new.

I may cast up a bunch of both bullets (mostly .44's) and put the whole show up for sale at Cast Boolits. Probably some caster out there would be interested.

Randy

Edited by doghawg on November 24 2018 at 4:27pm


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richhodg66
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Posted: November 24 2018 at 5:26pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Randy,

I highly recommend reading this;

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-17546.ht ml

I used this basic technique to cast some of the RCBS 180 grain FP (mine turn out over 190)in an attempt to match the original loading in the .303 Savage.

I mounted a holder to hold a Lee dipping ladle in the flame of a propane torch I had sitting on the floor. While I was casting regular bullets to keep the mold hot, I melted eight spent .177 air rifle pellets (pure lead) in the ladle. When the pellets melted and were real hot, I poured them into the mold cavity, then waited a few seconds for it to harden. I then used my bottom pour pot to fill the mold with harder alloy, waited for it to solidify, then held the mold just in the flame of the torch until the sprue liquefied again, then set it on a flat surface and waited a minute or two. this resulted in real good bullets and except for a slight difference in color between the two alloys, the joint was completely seamless. I have no doubt these would mushroom like all get out at easily attainable accurate cast bullet velocities.

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turbo1889
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Posted: November 25 2018 at 1:54am | IP Logged Quote turbo1889

If you shoot a big enough diameter cast
lead bullet with a wide enough flat on the
nose then making soft nose bullets becomes
unnecessary.

But for stuff like cast spitzers out of
7x57 then yah, casting soft nosed makes a
lot of sense for hunting big game. So far
I've been able to develop gaschecked loads
for the 7x57 that push a 165gr custom
hybrid lube nose engraving spitzer to just
barely over 2,000-fps while maintaining
accuracy and not leading the bore. That
is a combination that is worth making soft
point versions of. A lot of my cast lead
loads that are 30 caliber or larger with a
big flat on the nose you can get enough
hydraulic effect off the flat on the nose
to just shoot hard lead.

I've also got some point tipped bullets in
larger calibers I sometimes make soft
points of but often just don't shoot the
point nosed bullets at game since the
ballistics really don't give me any true
range advantage that is worth picking up
since they are big diameter flying bricks
with or without a pointy or flat tipped
nose. Theoretically one should be able to
get a long slender pointed cast bullet
moving fast enough in 6.5mm, 270, 30-cal,
fat-30-cal, and 8mm to make them worth
while for soft pointing but so far hasn't
worked out for me yet. Maybe just because
I haven't put as much time and effort into
trying to build up a cast zipper load in
those as I have for 7mm.

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richhodg66
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Posted: November 25 2018 at 7:34am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

I agree, in my experience .30 and bigger if it has some weight and a flat nose, getting good terminal performance is easy. A .35 or bigger is a no brainer.

Did not soft point it, though it was cast fairly soft and pushed over 1900 FPS, I killed a deer with cast in a 7x57 earlier this year, The bullet expended quite violently, in fact, I'll probably slow it down or cast it harder next time.


Truthfully, it wasn't difficult to do, just had to know a little about casting and loading cast bullets. And I tend to hunt close, just the way I do it and it's the way I'd do it even if I was using a .264 Win Mag. Yes, expansion can be done without jumping through too many hoops and you don't have to resort to big bores to be successful with cast. The thread is here. [http://forums.handloads.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=36370&PN=1

Edited by richhodg66 on November 25 2018 at 7:39am


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doghawg
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Posted: November 26 2018 at 5:17pm | IP Logged Quote doghawg

richhodg66

I appreciate the link you posted. I should really take a pic of the the LBT molds I have. The soft nose mold would require no measuring...it casts the entire nose portion of the bullet down to the top crimp groove. It's never been used and the molds themselves are low mileage and look like new so I'm reluctant to do any torching on the aluminum molds. I've got no idea how old Veral recommends getting the cold nose and a freshly poured base to properly fuse together.

I'm getting old and creaky and find that the .475 BFR is less fun than it used to be. My little Henry single shot shoots the 320 LFNGC exceptionally well so I may cast up a couple hundred of those and sell the whole set.

Randy

Just tried to post a picture. I used to copy and paste and now that doesn't seem to work.

Edited by doghawg on November 26 2018 at 5:27pm


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richhodg66
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Posted: November 26 2018 at 7:16pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

If it's an aluminum mold, you'd likely be able to accomplish the same thing by putting the bottom of the mold in the lilted alloy in your post. Aluminum conducts heat enough faster that it would probably work fine. I didn't leave the iron mold in the flame for long and actually only in the outside of the flame. Worked OK.

Seems like a .475 bullet is "pre-expanded" enough that a soft nose would be kind of pointless.

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USA Joe
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Posted: November 26 2018 at 10:48pm | IP Logged Quote USA Joe

Hi all:) It has been many decades ago that I was h*ll
bent on the " Composite cast bullets " Lyman # 429625 if
I am reading my cold writing casting the bases out
of Lino and the nose sections from pure lead, two molds
held together by glue / loaded Hot with Elmer Keith's
2400 ! never found any great advantage over 429421 / as
either one would go through a white tail varmint on one
it exited in two places
     Good luck ! stay safe   Joe

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