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Subject Topic: Troubleshooting a S&W Model 10 Post ReplyPost New Topic
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Abram
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Posted: November 19 2018 at 12:45pm | IP Logged Quote Abram

A while back i bought a used S&W 38 Special revolver, model 10-8. It appeared to be working fine, cleaned, lube and took it to the range, well it started to lock up intermittently as I was shooting it in DA, not sure why. It will cycle, cock and fire in SA just fine. I am going to give it a good cleaning tonight. Has anyone ran into this before and if so what are some things I could check

Thank you
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RT58
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Posted: November 19 2018 at 6:46pm | IP Logged Quote RT58

If it's locking up on the same chambers, it could be a burr or other problem with the ratchet teeth on the extractor star.

If it's happening randomly on different chambers it might be Bubba tried to "improve" the trigger pull. Check the hammer and trigger for evidence of grinding and pull the trigger with the sideplate off.
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M700
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Posted: November 19 2018 at 7:44pm | IP Logged Quote M700

Ejector rod is screwed in all the way, firmly?

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Abram
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 6:34am | IP Logged Quote Abram

I will check the Ejector Rod tonight. Someone on another forum wrote that it was possibly a weak rebound spring, I am going to check that as well

I did notice last night that it seems to cycle just fine when I operate it slowly but as soon as I try and do rapid firing it locks up.

Thanks for the replies
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richhodg66
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 7:13am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

It just about has to be something simple. Those are about the most bullet proof reliable mechanical implements man ever devised.

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rich2
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 8:26am | IP Logged Quote rich2

I have a model 15 that did the same thing. (Worked fine single action but bound up rapid double action.) The ejector rod was slightly loose and there was an accumulation of gunk between the cylinder and where it rotates on the swing arm, from shooting cast bullets. A good cleaning and it shoots great!

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Abram
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 10:07am | IP Logged Quote Abram

I want to try all of the simple stuff first...lol. I have been reading some more info and another owner stated that he had problem with the Hammer Block. I am going to concentrate on the cylinder tonight and if that does not solve it i will try removing the hammer block and testing the gun, EMPTY, to see how it functions. Let em ask another question, how light should the trigger pull feel when I shoot it in SA? I ask only because if you are shooting it in SA it has a very light pull
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FM12
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 4:03pm | IP Logged Quote FM12

Ejector rod best bet to start there.

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REM1875
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 4:37pm | IP Logged Quote REM1875

M700 wrote:
Ejector rod is screwed in all the way,
firmly?



First thing I would check ........
Hold the rod and twist the cylinder usually squares it
away ....
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Abram
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 7:44pm | IP Logged Quote Abram

The first thing I did tonight was to remove the cylinder and attempt to tighten it, it appeared to be a little lose, the next thing I did was to soak it in some Hoppes and then scrub the front and rear of the cylinder really good, after that I cleaned and scrubbed the forcing cone. I turn my attention to the inside, cleaned it real good. In the process of doing this I managed to lock it up good, kept working with it until I got it cycling again, now it runs like a champ. I am still not sure what caused the problem but I will be making another range trip and we will see. Thanks for the help
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M700
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Posted: November 20 2018 at 8:47pm | IP Logged Quote M700

Cool. The ejector rod can "back out" unscrewing itself.

Clean it to get rid of all the lube, then a tiny bit of non-hardening lock-tite will keep it in place.

Might not be the problem with your revolver, but it's the first thing I'd check and fix on mine.

I'll admit it's happened a couple of times to me, with some of my much-used S&W revolvers.

"Non-hardening" is an important thing in this discussion...

Guy
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RT58
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Posted: November 21 2018 at 7:37am | IP Logged Quote RT58

Those ejector rods can be a problem. I've never seen one stop the cylinder from turning before they make it difficult to open the cylinder.

I've only replaced one hammer block, it did keep the hammer from moving before being fitted, but I don't remember if only did it in double action.

The big clue here is that it's only locking up in double action and not single action. I'd start by looking at things that are different between the two modes and that is the hammer/trigger engagement as they contact in different areas depending on SA/DA mode. The way they engage is critical and it is not uncommon to find a used one that has been "fixed" by someone who has no idea of what they are trying to do. I bought a S&W model 1917 that worked fine in SA and in DA as long as it pulled slowly. But it would lock up if I tried to fire a fast DA shot. I opened it up and found someone had filed the front of the trigger where it engaged the cylinder stop, to the point where if the trigger was pulled fast it would slip past the stop.

I'm not saying it can't be something else as there are several things that can lock or bind the cylinder up.
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John Van Gelder
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Posted: November 30 2018 at 7:10am | IP Logged Quote John Van Gelder

Revolvers..too many moving parts. A bit of crud build up under the ejector star, is a possibility, this sounds almost like a timing issue.

Have you tried cycling the gun in double action..the cylinder stop should drop into the notch in the cylinder before the hammer falls. Over time the little "nubs" on the ejector star, that the pawl engages become worn and throw the timing off, this also could be an issue with the pawl.

If you have not done so, take the side plate off and inspect for things wandering around loose in there.
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