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turbo1889
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Posted: December 28 2018 at 7:17pm | IP Logged Quote turbo1889

Was looking up info about how to powder coat my cast
lead bullets since its been something I've wanted to try
out and see how well it works for awhile now, and in the
process I ran across this:

https://youtu.be/TCk2-pmXLZQ

And now I am really rethinking even trying it. Anyone
have any experience with this problem? Thoughts?

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Tom W.
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Posted: December 28 2018 at 9:26pm | IP Logged Quote Tom W.

I've never pc'd any of mine and probably won't, but go
looking at the cast boolit forum. There's a wealth of
information and knowledge there, with 99% friendly and
helpful people there.

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richhodg66
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Posted: December 29 2018 at 6:16am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

The only thing that will ever make me foray into powder coating is if I have a bullet I want to make bigger in diameter and there are other ways to do that.

People swoon about the lack of smoke and how clean things are. I only shoot outside so don't care about smoke, never get leading because I know what I'm doing, and a couple of swipes with Ed's Red takes care of burnt lube and powder fouling. Powder Coating just seems like a waste to me.

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dahlin
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Posted: December 29 2018 at 6:37am | IP Logged Quote dahlin

I got curious and pulled one of my loads from 2016 6.6gr of Power Pistol and a Missouri Bullet coated bullet. The bullet looked the same as when I loaded it and there was no change in how the powder looked we will shoot this later today I think there fine and I like coated bullets. Randy forgot to say these are 9mm.
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richhodg66
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Posted: December 29 2018 at 6:45am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Aren't commercially coated bullets usually a thin copper wash rather than powder coating?

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dahlin
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Posted: December 29 2018 at 7:43am | IP Logged Quote dahlin

No these are red powder coated check out there web site. I have shot a lot of there bullets they are accurate and have had zero troubles with them and not a bad price. I cast my own for the 38 and 357 but for the 9mil I like these or bad man bullets. Randy
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RECURVE
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Posted: January 02 2019 at 4:24pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

The test in not valid unless its inside a loaded round
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RECURVE
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Posted: January 02 2019 at 4:37pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

Lot of guys say the base of the cast bullet is nothing to
worry about that's a red flag for me if so why do you use
gas checks
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richhodg66
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Posted: January 02 2019 at 6:21pm | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Who says that? The base is everything in cast bullets. Gas checked or not. You have to be fussy about base fill out, base defects are much more detrimental to accuracy than nose defects in my experience.

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doghawg
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Posted: January 02 2019 at 6:30pm | IP Logged Quote doghawg

I got into powder coating with an investment of $5 for a bottle of Harbor Freight red powder, an old convection oven and a Cool Whip bowl. Powder coating worked quite well for me but lately the novelty kind of wore off some. I have an old Lyman #452423 that dropped a little smaller than I wanted (.451") so a layer of powder coat fattened the bullets up to .453 and it shoots quite well in a Ruger Bisley .45 Colt with no leading.

Powder coating reminds me of the moly-coating craze that swept the handloading world 20 years ago. I still have a half a container of Midway moly sitting on the back of a shelf somewhere and that $5 bottle of powder coat will probably never get used up either.

Now I may have to pull a bullet or two just to make sure there's nothing sinister going on in there...

Randy

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richhodg66
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Posted: January 03 2019 at 6:53am | IP Logged Quote richhodg66

Good to know. I'm sure it can be made to work, but your idea of adding to a bullet's diameter that needs it is the only argument for powder coating that holds any water for me. The ability to use very soft alloys for things which otherwise might be too soft may be useful as well.

Usually the arguments go like;

"Powder coating eliminates leading!" I don't get leading anyway. Cast, size and lube properly and you don't get leading, period.

"Powder coating eliminates most of the smoke!" I detest indoor ranges and almost never shoot on them. I have the entire state of Kansas for smoke dissipation where I shoot, who cares?

Powder coating makes gun cleaning so much easier!" A couple of swipes od Ed's Red, run a bore brush through half a dozen times (sometimes), another patch of Ed's Red, couple of drying patches, done.

The ability to use soft alloys might be useful. I hunt with cast bullets and attaining that expansion is something I seem to have successfully done, but it takes some thinking and you have to find that happy medium between hard enough for good accuracy but soft enough to deform when it hits game. Powder coating softer alloys might make finding that equilibrium easier.

Increasing diameter, especially for old milsurp rifles and such would definitely be useful in some instances. Generally, though, most molds drop large anyway. Something I have messed with off and on is round ball loads in smoothbore shot guns, particularly a .60 caliber ball in 20 gauge which is quite a bit under sized. OK in choked smoothbores, but I have a rifled barreled H&R I'd like to try some as full diameter slugs and maybe by powder coating those, I could come up with a .62 diameter round ball. I may have to give this a whirl at some point, but for the most part, I feel it's an answer looking for a question and just another fad. Then again, if no one ever tried anything new, where would the fun in that be?

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RECURVE
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Posted: January 03 2019 at 8:20am | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

Just tore down some ammo i.loaded 12 12 17 there is no
problem with any rounds with the Eastwood p0wder and HP38
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RT58
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Posted: January 03 2019 at 9:48am | IP Logged Quote RT58

Makes sense to me. If it bothers you just store them with the bullets up, or use single based powders.

I thought about powder coating too, but that didn't last too long. The issues it was supposed to solve weren't really issues to me and certainly not worth the effort. As I recall the whole idea got started in Australia after the government put in some kind of "clean air" regulations that involved lead bullets and outdoor ranges.

The guys that said burning powder doesn't affect the bases of lead bullets weren't looking at the right part of the "base". They noticed that the bases of fired bullets weren't deformed or melted at all. The important part about the base of a lead bullet is the edge. It's what keeps the gases from escaping around the bullet and that's why you need good sharp corners, or a gas check. The edge is also important for accuracy as the gas is still pushing against the bullet after it leaves the barrel and can disrupt the bullet if the base isn't uniform all the way around.

Edited by RT58 on January 03 2019 at 9:49am
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RECURVE
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Posted: January 03 2019 at 3:58pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

Correct RT58 some of these experts on you tube is what I
was referring to
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doghawg
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Posted: January 03 2019 at 5:39pm | IP Logged Quote doghawg

Well I pulled a few powdered bullets loaded over HS6, Blue Dot and Unique and stored with bullets nose down. Powder coat used was Harbor Freight red and loads were about a year old. Bullet bases were just fine.

richhodg66

I agree with you on the importance of size and lube, etc but I do have a couple of revolvers that are prone to leading. My .475 Linebaugh has a slight thread choke and chambers will just barely accept a .476" sized cast bullet. I powdered the RCBS 400 gr. SWC cast relatively soft (BHN 9-10) and then run it through a .476" Lee push through sizer with puts it slightly under .476". Velocities run at 1100 fps. From a sand bag rest and with an UltraDot sight it will consistently shoot 50 yard groups at 2" or under so I have no interest in firelapping or throat reaming. That same combo with any of the lubes tried so far would have leaded.

So I view powder coating as just another tool in a casters tool kit. I still prefer the Star and RCBS sizers for most loads.

Randy

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turbo1889
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Posted: January 04 2019 at 12:19am | IP Logged Quote turbo1889

dahlin, RECURVE, & doghawg

Thank you to all three of you for pulling
down some loaded rounds and sacrificing
them for my question. I'll be watching
the thrift stores and yard sales for a
cheap convection oven, then some harbor
freight red and a plastic tub and I'm
going to try this new fangled thing out.
I'm really curious if maybe I'll be able
to get some cast lead to actually work at
2,000+ fps for me in 223 and 220-Swift two
which I have tried in the past with cast
lead but never got any decent velocity
without major issues. I've heard some
guys have gotten AR-15s & mini-14s to run
with cast loads using multiple coats of
powder coat. We shall see.

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What part of, "the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be INFRINGED" don't you understand ?!?!?

To the most serious charge of "ARMING WOMEN" I plead guilty on multiple counts.
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RECURVE
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Posted: January 04 2019 at 3:58pm | IP Logged Quote RECURVE

I agree with proper lead and hardness and dia there
shouldn't be a lead problem. I like plane base bullets
and I can get more velocity out of the powder coat with
no leading instead of useing gas checks and a lot less
mess and it's cheap my star and rcbs isn't used much
anymore. Works good for rifle also. And fun to mix colors
and something different to play with in the winter time.
I'll admit I'm 72 years old and don't usually change my
way of doing a trid and true method but I like this stuff
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RT58
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Posted: January 05 2019 at 11:49am | IP Logged Quote RT58

RECURVE wrote:
Correct RT58 some of these experts on you tube is what I
was referring to


A lot of the youtube videos I've seen showed just how little the posters knew about the subject they were supposed to be "teaching" others. Like the two guys that had an old .32 revolver and destroyed it with their reloading expertise. Another guy was showing his knowledge of black powder vs. smokeless based on what he'd learned on the internet, and showed it by burning them both in open air.

The biggest problem with this video was he didn't tell enough about the problem he was referring to. I've seen a lot of different ways guys were using to coat their bullets and this didn't mention how many times and how the bullets were treated that encountered this failure. Did he do a lot of research or didn't he?
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turbo1889
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Posted: January 05 2019 at 10:59pm | IP Logged Quote turbo1889

Well, I was doing searches for "How To"
videos on this newfangled powder coating
bullets thing and came across that video
and it made me pause.

The fact he used those little Ziploc bags
for his test is were he must have gone
wrong. I may try a similar test myself
and make my own video as a response to
his.

The first bullets I'm pribably going to
try this with are some 223 cast lead
bullets. I figured the best test will be
to take some pistol brass 38-spl. for
example and put a little gun powder in the
case and drop a 223 powder coated bullet
inside and add a little more powder on top
of the bullet and then cap it off with an
unlubed uncoated lead DEWC and crimp. Do
that with a half dozen different common
powders and lable them and set them aside
and wait at least 6-months. That would be
a true test because it's contained inside
a brass case that is sealed but at the
same time its still a loose bullet that
can be easily examined. Checking the
bases of pulled bullets, especially the
base edge which is the most important part
is compounded by not knowing for sure if
any damage was caused during the bullet
pulling process. Loose 223 bullet sealed
with powder inside a larger caliber case
would be easier to examine and be sure.

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What part of, "the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be INFRINGED" don't you understand ?!?!?

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Ronnieboy
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Posted: January 06 2019 at 12:52pm | IP Logged Quote Ronnieboy

I've used the powder coat and have a couple views. The powder coat has to be a certain temp for it to adhere to bullets. Any less and its not "cured". Also, Red Dot and similar Alliant powders have a ether based formula. Ether, is a good reducer, "paint remover". I personally have not had a issue, but these two items might have made the boo boo.   Ron

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